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The 4 Best Cargo Nets for Jeep Wrangler

October 28, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

If you’re trying to secure items in the back of your Wrangler or you just want the option of doing so, a cargo net is a good choice.

You keep the open feel of your Jeep, while adding some utility.

Cargo nets vary in quality and price, by a good amount. So we picked the best options on the marketplace for the money.

Here are our choices. The 4 Best Cargo Nets for Jeep Wranglers:

1. Smittybilt Cargo Net: 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK

Fit: 2 Door Jeep Wrangler JKs 2007-2018

The Smittybilt Cargo Net for Jeep JK is an affordable option if you’re looking to keep your gear secure with your open top Jeep. This isn’t meant for hard top models of Wrangler, but with modifications you could make it work.

Depends if you want to deal with that. There are similar models that will work better, but they’re considerably more expensive – to the tune of 3 times the price.

Smittybilt is a well known auto brand that have been around a long time. They make good value products and for the amount, this fits that criteria.

It’s not going to be the strongest cargo netting, which isn’t to imply it’s weak – it just depends what you need. Note: This is only for 2 door models, if you’d like a 4 door model for your Jeep Jk you can pick it up here.

2. Rugged Ridge Cargo Net: 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK

Fit: 2 Door Jeep Wrangler JKs 2007-2018

More expensive than our previous option, but thicker and more durable material explains the price difference. It’s made from UV treated polyester, so if you’re going to have this sitting in the sun you’ll be fine.

Some other options we’ve seen are made of cheaper plasticy crud that the sun is going to wear down over time. The Rugged Ridge Net is a good value if you own a JK, and it looks pretty sweet too.

The polyester is stitched over rings throughout the design, which gives it a really sturdy feel. They have a limited 5-year warranty that covers the material and craftsmanship, so if anything goes wrong with it you’ll be covered. We know it’s a bit more expensive but you’ll be able to feel the difference.

One knock we have is that the clips that secure it to the back of the Jeep are plastic, so those are going to be failure points after repeated use.

3. Smittybilt Cargo Net: 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ

Fit: 2 Door Jeep Wrangler TJs 1997-2006

This simple black cargo net is similar to the first we featured, almost identical. Except it fits the TJs. This design comes with a 5-Year limited warranty and it’s pretty affordable, probably the cheapest one you could get.

There aren’t too many manufacturers who make cargo nets for this range of Jeeps, and they’re all pretty expensive if they do. An alternative to Smittybilt is Extreme Terrain, here is their selection of cargo kits for the TJ.

Extreme Terrain has a good amount of options that are heavy duty, they’re just going to be a bit more expensive.

4. Dirty Dog Cargo Net: 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JKU

Fit: 4 Door Jeep Wrangler JK 2007-2018

Razer Auto has a model of cargo net made specifically for a 4 door Jeep JK. It does include instructions however they are downloadable. While this is a good quality unit, it’s price point might leave some to be desired. But there aren’t that many options out there for the 4 door models when it comes to cargo nets.

It’s an easy bolt on install and it has plenty of clips to keep it securely placed. The sun won’t fade it, and it’s been tested to fit the models in the specified range. We think this is a good choice, but a bit expensive.

Why Own a Cargo Net?

Well, do you own an animal? Jeeps can be so open that it can put your mind to ease if you keep your dog with you. You wouldn’t want your buddy making a mad dive at the first appealing car that passes in your direction, for many it can give you some peace of mind. For most, a cargo net is just a way to store things.

A cargo net might give you a false sense of confidence but it isn’t going to be as secure as a proper enclosure. If you’ve got something extra heavy – we recommend finding additional ways to secure it. Ratchet straps are a good bet.

Conclusion

There aren’t too many options on the marketplace for Jeeps when it comes to cargo nets, but the ones that are there will suffice. If you’re looking for something affordable that will cover your Jeep, we say go with Smittybilt.

You won’t be able to find something cheaper on price. If you want something a bit more rugged that uses nylon webbing, those are out there – Extreme Rugged is a good option. You’ll pay more, but you’ll get something with a longer warranty and a material that you might prefer.

Cargo nets aren’t a substitute for tying down heavy objects when you have your Jeep open to the elements, but they’re great for keeping lighter things secured – or your dog in your vehicle.

The 4 Best Car Waxes for UV Protection

October 27, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

Nothing damages our skin like the sun, and the same goes for cars.

It’s only right that you’ll want the best UV protection for your ride to keep it protected as long as possible.

Which car wax do you want to protect your ride from harmful rays?

Here are our reviews of the 4 best car wax for UV Protection:

1. CarGuys Liquid Wax - 16 oz kit

CarGuys liquid wax is one of the most consistently praised products in this category.

It creates what’s called a hydrophobic barrier(water will bead off) after application.

When you buy their kit, it includes an applicator pad to apply the solution and a towel to buff it into your paint.

This isn’t truly “wax”, instead it’s a synthetic polymer(sealant)- which is why you need to apply it less often than a traditional wax. It degrades at a slow rate.

This wipes off after application, leaving a nice shine. It’s a great product when used correctly. We recommend to first wash and dry your car, then apply the sealant. If you have a clay bar, use that first before application.

They’re confident enough in their product to offer a lifetime warranty with full refund, but you will pay a bit more for this than other options.

By the way, if you’re looking for a traditional style wax we feature that in our #3 choice. The majority of our choices are not true waxes but rather hybrid options. These have become popular in the last decade in the auto industry for many reasons. But, it’s not to say a traditional wax is inferior.

2. TriNova Liquid Carnauba Car Wax - 18 oz

TriNova Liquid Car Wax is a product made right here in the USA. The bottle includes 18 ounces which is enough to last you a year for one car.

If you’re looking for protection against the elements, and the sun – this carnuba based wax is a good choice.

They’re a well-known brand that’s been around for over 85 years. Applying a good coat is is a bit more labor intensive than a polymer solution, but the results will speak for themselves.

Besides the smell(not too bad), our only other gripe is that they could include a microfiber towel with the purchase to get us started. You can use this all over your car, including your headlights. It’s safe and easy, and will leave your car with a wet glossy look.

3. 3M 39526 Car Wax - 10.5 oz

If you like a glossy finish, the 3M Perfect-It Car Wax will do the job.

Like our previous example, this will leave your car with a shiny wet looking finish. It protects against the sun, extending the life of your paint job.

This is a synthetic paste solution, so you’re going to have to lay down some elbow grease to get this one coated properly.

If you have a polishing machine, it will save you a good amount of time. But, the results speak for themselves. If you have a garaged car – this should last you six months to a year.

One big thing to note with this wax, is you can’t let it dry. You will need to wipe this off before it reaches that point and you’ll be a happy customer. This wax will leave a long lasting shine and your paint will have a smooth feeling.

4. Chemical Guys Top Coat Wax and Sealant - 16 oz

Chemical Guys has an affordable option that gets you a good bang for your buck. It’s a blend and another long lasting synthetic wax.

You’ll only need to put this on twice a year, so one bottle should last you a good amount of time.

It’s a wax/sealer combo and will keep your car shielded from the sun, salt water, and other pollutants that could affect your finish.

There is a newer version of this product, and we recommend sticking with the older one. You can’t beat a great formula. It can stand on it’s own.

But if you give your car a polish or use a clay bar first and then apply this, it will make it look a bit better.

What's a good car wax applicator?

Applicators can be picked up pretty cheaply, but avoid the thin microfiber packs if you don’t want your hand to come in contact with your paint.

We like these applicators from Chemical Guys because they’re thick enough that our hands can rest nicely on them without rubbing against our nice wax job. Plus, they’re affordable.

Many options include applicators in the purchase price, so you may not even need to buy them separately.

I don't want a Synthetic Wax - What's a natural brand?

Most car wax today is synthetic because of it’s attractive properties that can both seal and make something shine.

But, if you’re an old school type you might prefer a purely natural brand. Formula 1 Carnauba wax will fit that description.

Sourced from a tree and trusted for decades, this long lasting car wax might not be as popular as some synthetics – but for those of us who really like to get our hands dirty, you’ll be pleased with the results after you use this.

What does it mean if a car wax is Hydrophobic?

By definition, it means it will repel liquid. Water will bead off your car. Practically, it helps your car to look great by not having any splotch marks from dried liquid.

Can car wax fix scratches?

Nope, that would be pretty awesome if it could though. All car wax can do is make your scratch appear to be gone as it “fills in” the mark. That will fade with time. It’s not a permanent solution.

BUT – if a scratch isn’t too deep it’s possible to remove it with a polishing compound. You’ll be able to tell by running your fingernail over it, it you can actually feel the scratch then you likely won’t be able to remove it. In that case, touch up the paint.

Do I need a different type of wax for a different color car?

That’s marketing fluff. Cars get painted all sorts of colors, and they all have clear coats. The clear coat is the last thing applied to a car of ANY color.

So, don’t go looking for a specific wax, look for the one you think is best for your car. Regardless of what they’re trying to sell you on.

How often should I wax my car?

Something that seems like it should have a simple rule, isn’t. Waxing your car depends on a few factors that we’ve outlined. A general rule is to wax is at least 3 to 4 times a year. Here are some factors you should consider.

How much do you drive?

If you drive a ton your car is going to have more wear and tear. That increases exposure to the elements as well. Proportionate to your driving, your car may require waxes more often.

How is the car stored?

If you have it in an uncovered parking space at an apartment, or your driveway it’s going to be sitting out in the open. The sun beaming down on it constantly is not good for paint. Have you ever seen what happens when you leave an orange in the sun for a day? It’s not a good look. Thankfully, car paint is a bit more resilient but constant changes in temperature and weather throughout the year will eventually do their damage. If you have it exposed, wax it more often.

How’s the air quality?

If you’re in a city – there are more pollutants naturally. More traffic, more smog, more random gunk floating through the air and landing on your beautiful paint job. So you’ve got to factor that in, some “greener” cities won’t make much of a difference and some smoggy cities will.

What’s the climate like where you live?

If you have a salty coastal breeze constantly hitting your car, that’s no bueno. Or if it’s too sunny, the roads are salty, lots of snow, and more factors that only you know. When it comes to car exterior care, you just have to imagine it was your skin as weird as that sounds. If you would be uncomfortable in the weather, so will your car, it just will take it much longer to show signs.

Conclusion

Giving your car a regular waxing is a great idea to extend the longevity of your paint job and protect it from the elements. We chose several long lasting synthetic waxes because we don’t like doing a lot of work to be honest.

So if we only have to wax our vehicle twice a year to keep it looking new, that’s a great deal. For liquid waxes our favorite was CarGuys and for paste wax, we liked the 3M 39526.

If you end up purchasing an option from this guide, come back and let us know how it worked out for you in the comments. We do add feedback from readers into our articles. Happy reading and enjoy your search!

Do I need Snow Chains for my truck?

October 24, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

It is our OPINION that “snowchains are for mountain peaks, not suburban streets.”

Real quick – if you’re a trucker this is a great guide to chain laws by state. Snow tires are the best technology for your car in the winter. Adding chains is not a substitute for cruddy tires and they aren’t cheap either. If you’re doing climbing with your car up a slippery mountainside, in that case – go for some chains. If you’re curious about this question, it might be your first time driving in snowy weather. You’ll have less experience than a local in the climate and experience driving in these conditions far outweighs chains.

When it gets slick on the roads good tires are a must, there is no technology that can mechanically reach down into the ground and save your behind. Sure, 4x4s are meant to be ridden in all kinds of conditions. But, helping your truck along is the best thing you can do for your traction. You do that with a good set of tires.

You don’t want some cruddy chains imported from a cost cutting manufacturer that were made with a low quality alloy either. Which there are plenty of going around if you dare to brave the depths of amazonian reviews.

Note For 4WD Vehicles - buying chains for all 4 tires is recommended. In 2WD you can get away with buying a set for the tires that power the vehicle.

We understand some people insist on getting chains and if you do – more power to you.

Here’s our advice for buying and using snow chains. Take the extra time to save yourself and your tires some unnecessary wear and tear next time you take a trip!

1. Look for the series of numbers on your tire at the side that are in the format of AAA/BB RCC. For example 215/60 R16. These numbers will be different depending on your vehicle! When you see this on your sidewall you’ll be able to use it to make sure that you’re getting the right size.

A really easy way to give yourself a headache is by just ordering chains without thinking about it. It happens, but if you’d like to avoid some frustration then make sure you know the exact diameter of your tires. Most of the popular brands are aware this is a pain in the butt and have fitment guides to help you choose.

2. Always read the manufacturers instructions! Tire chains can have varying designs and tolerances so it’s important to read up on the documentation included in your purchase. Some things seem simple and have little tricks to them.

3. Chain up before you reach the bad conditions, not after. Save yourself time in a comfortable situation instead of realizing after a little slippage that you need your chains. It should be a forethought, not after. If you’re prepared for your situation, your health and safety will thank you. Also, make sure you don’t just throw your chains on without smoothing out the kinks first, once it’s on your tire double check.

How do Tire Chains improve traction?

They dig into the snow and ice, since they’re tightly on your tire. They just give your car a hard “bite” to grab into things, like snow. Unfortunately for the cars behind you, they also tear that stuff up. Creating a sloshy wake of remnants as a car with them passes through.

The Complete Guide to Formula One – For Beginners

October 13, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

To understand the history of F1, you have to go back to when the first automobile was produced in 1885 by Karl Benz. Nine years after the first 4 stroke engine came to life, a “reliability test” was held in France. It was fifty miles, and the winner averaged a blazing speed of 14 mph. For the next 40 years, auto technology took off and in 1913 the Model T hit the production line.

The populace got its first taste of organized competitive racing with the European Grand Prix that started in 1906, one race was held. In fact, there was one race a year all the way until 1921(minus the war) and that’s when they stepped it up to 2 races. As most races were held on dirt roads, this wasn’t the ideal condition for cars. It proved dangerous to spectators and performance suffered. But, that changed with the idea of creating a track specifically for competitions. And in 1907 in Brooklands, the first motor racing track opened. Constructed of concrete and featuring banked corners, it spanned nearly 3 miles.

While the Grand Prix ran intermittently until the 1940s, in 1946 the standards that would govern F1 were laid when the FIA came to existence. The Federation Internationale de I”Automobile’s is a governing body that changed racing, they set the standards of the sport and decided what was okay and what wasn’t.

What does Formula One mean?

Formula One, which also used to be called Formula A and Formula I, is the idea that racing cars should operate within a set of regulations. For example, these include things like the type of engine allowed to be used, gearboxes, chassis and pit stops. It gets even more specific than that.

A recent huge change is that in 2010 they scrapped the idea of refueling during a race altogether. In it’s history, Formula One has allowed teams to experiment with steering, aerodynamics, suspension and steering without much restriction.

As you can imagine, some rules are outlined for safety and some are quite controversial. There are ebbs and flows in the sport, as to what is making it more competitive and what is ruining it. A constant narrative exists between changes, with times that fans and participants believed everything was healthily balanced.

In retrospect, that is something that will naturally happen with such an entity. Most importantly, when all these things are made equal or specified within a range, it creates a very competitive engineering war for teams to find their edge every year in the sport.

The First F1 Championship

A championship for motorcycles was first held in 1949, and so it was the FIAs opportunity to respond. That they did, and in 1950 the first F1 championship was held. They made it a series of six races to decide an overall winner. You might recognize some of the notable teams in the early years, Maserati and Ferrari. They’ve been in the thick of it since the beginning.

But, there was one car manufacturer that is a former racing powerhouse. That’s Alfa Romeo, and their 158 was the victor of the first F1 race. The 158 had a 1.5-litre engine and eight cylinders. The model was originally produced in 1938, but engineering modifications throughout it’s run made it a force to be reckoned with. By the time of the 1950 race, it had been upgraded to deliver 254 bhp. In 54 Grand Prix’s that this car was entered, it zipped away with 47 wins. Making it one of the most successful racing cars to ever be produced.
The driver was Giuseppe Farina, an Italian. He continued to race until 1955.

F1 in the 1950s

Although the Alfa Romeos had extremely powerful engines for the time, they came at a cost of fuel consumption. By 1951 the Alfa Romeo was only pushing about 1.5 miles to the gallon. Ferrari realized this shortcoming with the 1.5-litre and starting working on ways to overcome it. Enzo Ferrari swapped out his 1.5-litre supercharged model and switched to a v12 4.5-litre aspirated engine. This brought a huge swing in the races as the new v12 could go nearly 7 miles per gallon. The opposition had to refuel frequently during races, or bear down their vehicles with extra weight in fuel tanks.

Since Alfa was a state run company and needed new designs to compete, they went to their government for funding. This was denied, and so Ferrari was given free reign to the sport. Continuing to dominate until the 1954 season. It was in 1954 the FIAs new regulations were to go into effect, and teams now had to use 2.5-litre atmospheric engines. A series of improvements and new competitors entered the scene for this new season and it was the first time fuel injection was used in automobiles. Mercedes became the dominant force for the next two seasons. But, due to a historically awful crash at Le Mans, Mercedes would leave the sport after their brief dominance.

Historically, cars had always had their engines mounted in the front of the vehicle. Against a fierce field that included the best of Maserati and Ferraris, the Argentine Grand Prix was won by a Cooper and a private team. The engine was notably mounted behind the driver, and this was revolutionary. The following Grand Prix was won by the same car, with more competition in the field. The little Cooper began to gain notoriety.

In 1958 the first woman to ever race in F1 hit the track. Maria Teresa de Filippis raced a private Maserati at a Grand Prix.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1950s

F1 in the 1960s

In 1961 things were moving a little too fast for Formula One and so they decided to sanction speed. All engines had to be 1.5-litres and non-supercharged. They kept this in place for half the decade. Ferrari again answered the call, designing a V6 engine to meet the requirements and give them their best performance. It has one notable upgrade, the engine was located in the rear. Yet again, Ferrari proved their prowess and was dominating the field. In 1962 Lotus introduced a car featuring an aluminum monocoque chassis, a huge breakthrough for racing. It reduces weight and evenly distributes the load during motion. It helps the suspension and handling of the vehicle. Lotus went on to win in 1963 and 1965 in large part to this innovation. In 1966 Formula One changed their rules, engines of 3.0-litres were allowed as long as they were normally aspirated. 1.5-litre supercharged engines were also allowed. Innovation struck again as vehicles saw their first use of composite materials. The next year Lotus used the Ford-Cosworth DFV V8 engine and this would prove to be one of the most remarkable racing power-trains to dominate the sport for the foreseeable future, the Lotus’ rights to the engine expired in 1968. As aerodynamics became more important, teams all experimented with adding wings to their cars and ground effect was discovered. Note, creating downforce with aerodynamics to improve handling is a completely different concept than creating ground effect. The concept that you could create a car with incredible handling due to creating a design that took advantage of it. It would “suck” a car into the track by utilizing low pressure underneath it. Ground effect is fascinating.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1960s

F1 in the 1970s

Slick tires hit the scene in 1970 and Ferrari had a new flat-12 engine that could finally compete with the DFV. Lotus won the championship in 1972 with a very young driver, 25 year old Fittpaldi. At the time he was the youngest champ to compete in F1. Even though he won the championship that year, Fittpaldi felt slighted by Lotus as he wasn’t given the reigns to be the lead driver for the brand. So, he took to driving for McLaren.

Every decade has one or two game changing innovations, and in 1975 Ferrari added a transverse gearbox. This allowed it to handle and distribute weight more efficiently. It helped propel them to the title that year.

During the next few years teams continually experimented with aero designs, often testing new configurations. On the cusp of aerodynamics was Lotus, who in 1977 brought a car to the track that used ground effect effectively as discovered in the 60s. Most notably in the fan car.The Lotus 78 which used these innovations won five Grand Prix in 1977. They improved on this the next year with the Lotus 79 and other teams took notice. Adding ground effect to their plans. Ferrari and Ligier would improve upon this design in 1979.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1970s

F1 in the 1980s

The first carbon fiber composite chassis was brought to light by McLaren in 1981. Drivers and teams had well founded doubts on how it would respond in a crash but when John Watson crashed his MP4/1 violently in 1981, the technology proved it’s worth. Leaving him without a scratch. Turbo-charged engines had come a long way from decades proper and during the early 80s teams saw the light and made the switch. They no longer drank fuel and were faster than DFVs on nearly every track in F1.

McLaren and Williams were the two brands to dominate the 80s with superior cars and crews. Ferrari fell away as a competitive force int he last decade and wouldn’t see a championship again for nearly 20 years, with the exception of 1982. The 1980s also gave rise to a special driver, Senna. Who is still known as one of the best Formula One drivers, ever.

Turbo-charged engines tumultuous relationship with F1 resumed in 1989 when they were banned. They were replaced in regulations by naturally aspirated engines up to 3.5 litres.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1980s

F1 in the 1990s

Senna was owning the sport in the late 80s and early 90s but a flash of controversy surrounded him after he admitted driving into his teammate, Prost, in a Grand Prix. This marked his reputation and was condemned among the racing community.

Williams had taken a backseat to McLaren but things were about to change with their improved technology. Renault engines coupled with the best aerodynamics of all cars afforded them the fastest setups on the circuit. Three huge innovations were used in this decade; active suspension, traction control and semi-automatic gearboxes. As always the FIA must determine if technology is giving too much of an edge to certain teams for the sake of competition. They agreed, and many of those recent innovations were banned in 1994.

Safety hit a forefront of the sport with two well known drivers dying; Ratzenberger and Senna. This brought a cry from fans and the sport to increase safety regulations and so the focus shifted from speed, to prevention. New sanctions and requirements were handed down rapidly, changing the landscape. 3-litre engines became the maximum engine displacement allowed.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1990s

F1 in the 2000s

Meeting the best mix of power to fuel consumption was like walking a tightrope, and one engine met those requirements. That was the V10. Every team agreed, and it was the only engine being used from 1998 on. Meanwhile, the sleeping giant Ferrari had finally started to surface again. Bellowing around the racetrack like an awakened monster, they had a new golden boy. His name was Michael Schumacher. From 2000 until 2004 he would own the sport. With a dominant setup comes boredom, and fans were tired of seeing Ferrari win for so long. Their flashes of arrogance were offputting, this along with other brands leaving the sport entirely lead to a decline in viewership.

Yet again the FIA stepped in as a counterbalance. Rule changes included a new points system and 2003 was a much more competitive year than before, but Ferrari still won and again the next year. This decade was a testament to Ferrari’s engineering. They took 8 championships in total.

Near the end of the decade it became clear that F1 cars were so advanced, that racing was being discouraged. There wasn’t competition between drivers and it wasn’t as fiercely competitive as it had been in it’s heyday. So yet again, to try and turn the tide, the FIA stepped in. In 2009 more sanctions were put on configurations with the hope it would make the sport competitive again.

New technology to gain the edge is always on the table for F1, and the Kinetic Energy Recovering System was introduced. It works by saving energy through a flywheel while braking which then is then transferred to the drivetrain. This saves the momentum lost while braking, and increases acceleration.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 2000s

F1 in the 2010s

By 2010 KERS was banned. But where one innovation fades, new ones take its place. F-Ducts hit the scene, engineered by McLaren. This system adds about 3MPH and reduces drag by directing airflow in strategic locations on the vehicle.

2010 was one of the most competitive seasons in recent memory. In the final round, four drivers were still in contention for the championship. Vettel was the last man standing, and became the youngest to win it all. KERS again resurfaced the next year and has been allowed back into F1 racing.

Turbochargers once again rose from the depths of banishment in 2014. Currently F1 cars run 1.6-litre turbocharged V6 hybrids. Say that five times fast! In the 2010s the teams to dominate have been Red Bull and Mercedes, with the latter being the most recent victor.

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 2010s

Notable F1 Drivers

Ayrton Senna

During a 4 year span, Senna won three championships(1988,1990 and 1991). His legacy places him as being one of the best Formula One drivers ever. Like many F1 drivers, Senna got his start in karting and eventually made his debut in 1984 for F1 for Toleman-Hart and then to Lotus.

In 1988 he would start his reign with teammate Alain Prost. They dominated the competition into the early 90s. Although teammates, they were not friends.

With Senna taking it so far as to run into Prost on purpose. During a race in 1994, Senna was rounding a corner and crashed at nearly 145 mph. The impact ended his life and lead to sweeping changes in safety across F1. His legacy is still alive and he is one of the household F1 names. In Brasil his passing made waves and he was remembered with three days of mourning, 3 millions people paid their respects as his coffin was marched to it’s resting place.

Lewis Hamilton

The best driver in recent memory. Lewis Hamilton is a force to be reckoned with, already with four Formula One Championships. He is the only black driver to race in Formula One to date and his reign in ongoing, winning a championship in 2017. He currently races for Mercedes AMG Petronas.

Sebastian Vettel

Sebastian was only 23 years old when he won his first title in 2010. His four year span was consecutive and remarkable, winning championships from 2010-2013 with Red Bull. He won his first Grand Prix at only 21 years old. In the sport currently it’s Vettel and Hamilton for the foreseeable future. They’re both skilled contenders with Vettel hoping to bring Ferrari to glory once more.

Michael Schumacher

The man who brought Ferrari back on the map. Now retired, Schumacher is regarded by many to be the greatest driver ever. He has 7 Formula One Championships. He is, by the numbers the greatest to ever race and dominated a decade of the sport.

Unfortunately, he was involved in a ski accident and suffered a traumatic brain injury in 2014. Updates about his health are sparse, even to this day. His family wantsto keep his private life, private. We can only wish him the best and hope for a recovery.

Alain Prost

The French four-time Formula One Champ. Known by many as Senna’s rival and teammate. Prost is one of the best to get in a F1 vehicle. Prost didn’t realize he loved racing until he was 14 years old. On a family trip he decided to give go-karting a try, and got the bug.

Having made it to the pinnacle of the sport, he retired in 1993. A year before Ayrton’s passing. More recently he competed in ice racing. His racing style can be described as “foresight”. He would deliberately conserve his brakes and tires in a race so that in the end, when it mattered most, he could take chances.

Mario Andretti

Americans haven’t had much success in F1 racing, and our most recent win of the Formula One Championship was Mario. That was in 1978, it’s been a while as he is currently the last American to win a Grand Prix. Hopefully this changes soon. Seen as a Swiss Army Knife kind of rider, he didn’t just stick to F1. Mario was a winner in the Indy 500 and the Daytona 500 as well. Hey, at least we have something!

Jim Clark

The British F1 driver had an early death at the age of 32 due to racing. By that time he had accumulated two World Championships in Formula One. He also managed to snag a victory at the Indy 500 and excelled in all types of racing. His career was cut short by unfortunate circumstances but he is still regarded as one of the best.

In 1963, the Belgian Grand Prix was held in terrible weather. Rain, fog and slick roads. Clark started eight in his Lotus. By the end of the race he had a 5 minute lead on second place. An incredible piece of driving in an era where there was no such thing as traction control.

Juan Manuel Fangio

In the first decade of Formula One, there was one racer who had the sport wrapped around his fingers while he pumped the gas. That man was Fangio, the Argentine. Back then it was called the World Drivers’ Championship, and he won it five times. That record held for nearly five decades until Schumacher came along and broke it.

Alan Jones

Alan Jones won the first title for Williams. In what would prove to be a new long-lasting force in F1. He won the 1979 and 1980 Championships and is currently the last Australian to win the Australian Grand Prix. He never fully committed himself to F1 racing, and his career is here and there. Originally retiring in 1981 and even turning down Ferrari when they inquired if he would drive for them. He returned in 1985 to F1 but had to retire the next year as his Haas team ran out of money.

Nigel Mansell

The F1 Championship winner in 1992, his career spanned 15 years. It’s somewhat surprising that he only won one, as he lead in Grand Pix wins in 3 years total. The points system and unfortunate events during the season meant he only had one win when all was said and done. Nigel switched to CART racing the year after his F1 championship and won their inaugural title. It isn’t just racing that Mansell loves, he competed in the 1988 Australian Open for golf.

The Go-Kart Farm System

When you think of the minor leagues, baseball probably comes to mind. But, F1 needs a farm system too. No team is going to put you behind the wheel of their multi-million dollar car if you haven’t proven yourself. For nearly all former and current Formula One drivers, karting filled that void.

When you’re racing a car going 200 miles and hour and you’re racing one going 50, the same principles still apply. Your reaction time just has to be better. Karting is racing in a pure form, without all the bells and whistles a big budget provides. Parents dedicate money, and time to get their child involved in the sport.

Your kid can start racing as young as five years old on the track riding a 50cc engine. Once they hit 7 years old they can enter the Cadet class and move up to 60cc. At 12 you can get up to Junior class and that involves looking fora 125cc class of kart. Expect to spend several thousand on those, not to mention the maintenance and hopefully it doesn’t get crashed. At 15 and up you’ll be in the senior class if your kid doesn’t jump carting altogether for a bigger vehicle. Still, karting is to hone the basics and it’s best to start young.

Lewis Hamilton’s father mortgaged his house for his karting career and it paid off. He’s currently worth around 300 million usd. But, racers should focus on karting because they enjoy it. Lewis was a special case. It is a very expensive hobby and not everyone showed the same promise.

If you’re looking to find a place to take your kid go-karting in the USA, check out our guide.

All current F1 drivers have a background in karting.

F1 Accidents

With any racing sport that tests the boundaries of speed, there are bound to be memorable accidents. Some of these lead to sweeping changes in regulations by the FIA. Their cause ranging from human error, to mechanical failure and in some cases not enough precautions being taken.

1961 Monza

The Italian Grand Prix was held in Monza in 1961. The race was going fine until driver Wolfgang von Trips and Jim Clark were fighting for position on a straightaway. Their cars came close, their wheels touched and Trips lost control of his vehicle. Fans were standing close to the track up a hill and his Ferrari veered towards them, becoming airborne. Von Trips was ejected, he died at the scene. The car carried forward and killed fifteen spectators. At the time of his death, Trips was in the lead for the F1 Championship. It is regarded as one of the deadliest crashes in the sport.

1994 San Marino

In 1994 the San Marino Grand Prix managed to take two drivers lives. Everyone knows about Senna, but Roland Ratzenberger had died during qualifying for the race. In the 12 years before 1994 there had not been a fatal accident in F1. Senna then crashed and died upon impact in the race after his vehicle headed straight into a barrier on a turn. It’s not known for certain whether it was driver error or not, but these two crashes and most notably Senna’s forced the hand of FIA to rework safety regulations. The official statement regarding his crash is a steering column failure.

It led to improved crash barriers, track redesigns, higher safety standards across the board and a reduction to a 3-litre engine.

How do Formula One Teams Make Money?

The drivers get incredible payouts, the cars cost millions to maintain, so how do F1 drivers and teams make money? Well, they don’t actually focus on making money is the answer. Formula One is a marketing vehicle for all major brands, showcasing the superiority(hopefully) of their technology. It’s also a research ground for new technology that may someday make it into the cars of each brand, as has happened over the history of the sport.

To fund themselves and not be a complete money sink, teams use a combination of sponsorship and payouts from winnings. Some teams do lose money year to year, but that isn’t always the case. Teams like Mercedes spend nearly over 200 million dollars a year with all the expenses. Redbull made slightly over a million in profit in 2017, considering their budget – that’s not much.

Most of all, F1 is an advertising platform and researching ground. With Formula E gaining popularity, the electric series. The sport continues to push the boundaries on automotive research and improvements.

Where the Sport is Today

The future is bright for F1. With the advent of technology and their willingness to keep at the forefront, they have plans to offer streaming for races and integrate fans in the digital age. The edge on racing has become less competitive in recent years, but as always the FIA will have to figure out a way to balance technology with good driving.

They have a dedicated official youtube channel that pumps out tons of quality content, like the up and coming drivers featured below. It’s a great place to start if you’re wanting to learn about F1 and see whats going on in the circuit today. Currently Mercedes is having the run of the field and we can hope that competition between teams is restored soon. The sport has a rich history internationally and it’s a joy to see fine tuned machines at the top of their game.

The McLaren F1 Review

The 4 Best Emergency Roadside Kits with Air Compressors

October 12, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

A roadside emergency kit has to be a lot of things for us to make a confident purchase.

You’re going to want your kit to be affordable, durable and still have everything you need in case of an emergency.

With that said, let’s take a look at the 4 Best Emergency Roadside Kits with Air Compressors:

1. Lifeline 4330AAA Black AAA Premium Road Kit

Triple A is known for their roadside assistance, so it only makes sense they’d have an best selling roadside kit.

We feature pricier options in this guide, most notably #2 and #3, but if you’re looking for a value option, this is hard to beat.

Jumper cables, first aid supplies, a flashlight, rain gear, tire plugs and other additions.

Compared to the other choices, it doesn’t have everything BUT with the money you save you can buy these parts separately and add them to your kit. It will save you money overall.

We recommend pairing this tire compressor with this kit separately and also adding a tire plug kit to stop the leak. Why do we recommend assembling your own? Some “all-in-one” kits skimp on certain accessories to reach a part count.

They can say “120 piece kit!” but the quality of those parts isn’t guaranteed. That’s why in good faith we recommend buying the most important pieces separately. Those include the compressor, tire plug, and basic kit.

If you don’t have time for all of that, we understand. Options 2 and 3 will have everything you need in one.

2. Blikzone Emergency Car Kit

Blikzone’s kit is 81 pieces and a well-built compressor is one of them.

If you’re prone to electrical problems with your vehicle, this kit leans towards those issues. There’s a 19-piece electrical kit for circuit testing with fuses included.

It also has a tow strap, hand-crank, flash light, jumper cables, and a tire repair kit. The air compressor is stronger than our previous listing, at 30 PSI.

For the price of this option, it would be nice if they had included more parts that weren’t just shoe-ins. We don’t think we’ll need a whistle or a thin roll of duct tape(thick tape could be a yes). But, that’s not a big issue – overall this is still a pretty good option.

3. Coocheer Emergency Kit

A well put together kit by Coocheer, that’s missing one thing. The tire plug kit.

But, this kit is the first we’ve seen to include a shovel. Which makes it appealing for people who live in climates that have lots of snow.

If you ever need to dig a tire out of some slush, you’ll be thankful you purchased this. It includes an air compressor, shovel, a first aid kit, and many smaller accessories. For an option in this price range it’s a bit of a shame they don’t have a tire plug kit included.

If you get stuck in the cold there’s even a thermal blanket. If you added a tire plug kit to this separately, it’s a good choice.

4. Roadside Emergency Assistance Kit - Packed 110 Premium Pieces

This is a great barebones pick without the air compressor. 110 pieces that includes all the essentials.

It leans heavy on the first aid kit that is included. There are many supplies for emergency purposes and a separate bag just for those items.

As with most kits it does have jumper cables. There is also a roadside triangle, fire starter, and a heavy-duty tow strap. We recommend picking this as a base and building it up like we did with the Triple A product featured #1.

We would add the same two things to this kit to make it complete. That includes the tire compressor and tire plug kit. With these three things combined you have a very solid assembly that will suit you in nearly any situation.

What Should an Emergency Roadside Kit Include?

Your kit should have a compressor, first aid, battery cables, and a tire plug at the minimum. If you have allergies, be sure to include an epi-pen. I’m allergic to bees and had to buy one, it hurt my wallet but it’s nice knowing it is always with me.

If you find a good kit with most of the essentials, you could always buy what you think is missing separately like we recommend for option #1 and #4.

Depending on your climate, you may want to add weather specific gear

If you live in a colder part of the USA, it’s not a bad idea to get yourself a small shovel and to have some kitty litter on hand to help free yourself if you should ever get stuck in the snow. A flare – depending on how low visibility can get during a snowstorm if you were to crash it’s a good idea to have a warning flare.

In a warmer part of the USA, bring extra coolant for your car. Cars overheat a decent amount during summer, and it’s only human to forget to check your fluid levels sometimes.

If your car breaks down and you have to walk a bit, a little bottle of sunscreen can cover your neck and arms. A 3-day supply of water packets and a couple of electrolyte tablets are the final addition we recommend for hot weather if you are the super prepared type.

Conclusion

We’re fond of the Roadside Emergency Assistance Kit as the overall best value if you buy the compressor and tire plug separately. It costs a little more than Triple A’s product, but that’s because more is included. It might be a bit of overkill though.

If you end up picking something from this guide, let us know how it went for you in the comments. Hopefully we made your choice a bit easier and you got to see what options are out there.

Good luck on your search!

Are Engine Oil Additives Worth It?

October 9, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

If your car is getting old, and you’re starting to burn oil frequently then you might start asking the question; are oil additives worth it? The truth is, on most newer cars they are not needed. Your regular synthetic oil does a fine job lubricating the engine and that’s what it was spec’d for.

The ONLY time we can vouch for using it is when your car is burning off too much oil. I had a 2003 Dakota, and for me this definitely helped reduce oil consumption. An oil additive is labeled as a chemical compound that improves the lubrication of your base oil. Some additives work by affecting your viscosity. They improve the resistance of your oil from taking huge swings in it’s thickness based on your engines temperature. It would make sense to us, that when a vehicle gets older it might run a bit hotter. If it’s running hot, that could be a reason why it’s burning more oil. The use of your additive will address that issue so your oil stays within a normal range.

If an additives claims it can improve performance in a regular, maintained engine then it’s probably hocus pocus. There are some formulations that claim to reduce buildup and debree by “cleaning it up” with added chemicals. The thing is, regular oil already has additives in it.

In summary, each car owner is different and you know your car better than anyone. If it’s burning off a ton of oil and it’s not because of a terrible leak – you might want to give an oil additive a try if it keeps your viscosity in a tighter range.

As for brands, we find that BestLine Premium Sythetic Engine Treatment worked best for what we needed it to do. If you have any other brands that you like or suggestions, let us know. We’d be happy to hear it.

The 8 Ugliest Cars Ever Made

October 8, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

We’ve all seen an ugly car. We’ve all seen an ugly baby, too. The difference is, that baby has no choice that its parents were slapped with the ugly stick to and fro and back again. The car was molded by man. Signed off on by engineers to executives and even when the first one came off the production line looking like some hot trash, they continued to produce them. Let’s have a gander at some ugly production cars and ugly car projects. We’ve written a post on barf bags if you need some after browsing through these abominations.

Here are the ugliest cars in existence:

Toyota Prius

What the Prius has in fuel efficiency, it vomits out in disgustingness. Have you ever drawn an oval, and then imagined what it would look with wheels on it? If you have, you have the design capabilities of a Toyota engineer. There’s nothing wrong with wanting to save the environment, but when you meet a typical Prius owner.. they MUST let you know they’re saving the environment. All while drinking Starbucks on the daily that got their beans from commodity arbitrage while some poor village in South Africa toils for their favorite brew. Okay, I made that last part up.

Also, why do so many Prius owners drive like maniacs? We don’t get it, and we’re glad the Tesla is the “cool” electric car now. We can manage to look at that one.

Toyota Master Ace

We swear this isn’t hate on Toyota day. But, the Toyota Master Ace was something else. Secretly, we kind of admire this thing. Is that okay? I know this article is about hating on it, but retro stuff is in now.

The Toyota Master Ace surf wasn’t available in America, this is a Japanese model. It tried to capture the vibe of the 70s with its painting combination and still manages to have three rows of seating. We do nominate it to replace the Scooby Doo van, this one looks like it ventilates air a bit better.

Toyota Calinda

Take the gas, internal combustion and revving of engines out of any vehicle and you have the Toyota Calinda. This car speaks to the world and tells it you’re going to drive below the speed limit. Made for the driver who has a phobia of the gas pedal, the Calinda is a statement car. “I’m a law abiding citizen and you can go around me!”. Except they usually stick to one lane roads. The Calinda wins our heart for being the limp wet handshake of the 90s.

Subaru Baja

The brass at Subaru was struck with a novel thought when they first decided on the Baja. What if we could make something with a truck bed..without the towing capacity of a truck? And boy, did they succeed. The Baja is supposed to be a sporty car similar to the WRX but with a different styling. A homage to rally-race trucks. Except they added a plastic lower body that looks like a cheap toy car you’d get in a dollar store. To its credit, Suby’s are beloved for their unique look. However, this one just didn’t work. The Baja bombed, having a 3 year run from 2003-2006.

Dodge Ram 350 - The Candy Van

Have you ever seen a van that tells you more about a person than a white Dodge Ram? This one actually has windows so we can’t go off on our tangent of a candy man, but we can give you 50% odds the driver is an unemployed conspiracy theorist. Or, they clean carpets.

Fiat Fiorino - Ugly and Functional

When we first saw this truck/storage hybrid thing, we wanted to call it ugly. Like most of the people that look at the Mona Lisa the first time. But, unlike the Mona Lisa… this is functional art and we can actually find beauty in it. Not lie to ourselves that it’s pretty because other snobby artists say it is! NO. This is BEAUTY. The Fiorino might look mousey, but imagine taking this thing on a camping trip. It’s so small but you could store so many beers in that truck/storage thing that you’d be in love with it by the end of your trip.

Brubaker Box

Have you ever wanted to drive a moon rover? We think that might be what they were going for when this thing hit the market. This was considered the first minivan and hit the market in the 70s as a kit car. It had a fiberglass body and it was a solid construction. Do you see a driver door? Nope! You could only enter from a sliding panel on the right side of the vehicle. This kit took a stab at a new design and came out ugly, what can you do. Brubaker filed in the same year he released his kits to the marketplace, and very few were ever sold.

PT Cruiser

To be destructive is a creative urge as well, I read that somewhere once. And, when the designer decided to troll Chrysler into building something that looked like the concept car of a 5th grader. This thread on reddit highlights various reasons people may have purchased their own mistake of a cruiser. With the top comment saying,” I wanted a convertible that looked like a bathtub on wheels when the top was down”.

An eloquent description of the PT Cruiser. It was supposed to have a retro gangster type of look to it, and this is how it came out. This car serves a deep meaning to me because I remember how cool I thought it was when I first laid eyes on it. I was obsessed, about something ugly. Looking back on it now, let it be a lesson to us all.

Drunk goggles happen, even when you’re sober. These things didn’t just sell one year and flop, no. PT cruisers can still be seen on the road today flopping around like manatees out of their environment. Harmless, and ugly.

We hope this post didn’t hurt any feelings, it’s all in good fun.

Best Barf Bags for Uber and Lyft Drivers

Ceramic Vs Semi-Metallic Brake Pads – What’s Better?

October 3, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

If you’re looking to replace your vehicle’s rotors and brakes, you’ll come across ceramic pads and semi-metallic pads. To know which one is better is completely dependent on your vehicle’s weight, how you drive your vehicle, and the environment you live in.

Semi-metallic brake pads are able to dissipate heat more efficiently. That means they can last you longer. As for one being cooler than the other? There is no difference until the temperature comes into play. Semi-metallics stopping power is relatively stronger in colder climates.

Ceramics, on the other hand, don’t care what temperature it is outside unless you abuse them. When they get hot, they stay hot. So if you’re speeding around the highway and constantly giving them a brake slamming workout, it’s not going to bode well for their longevity. In that case, you might as well stick with semi-metallic brake pads. They’ll be able to take the heat better. Both pads work well and relatively similar when they aren’t too hot, the difference comes when they reach that point.

Note Because Semi-Metallics produce more dust, your wheel wells will get dirtier than they would with ceramics. If you don't mind cleaning slightly more often, then it's not a big issue.

If you have brake pads geared for performance, they’ll be able to take a lot of heat. Most drivers will not experience this or need it. But, it’s still good to check the specifications and tolerances of your brake pads. Driving heavy work vehicles around all day? Those take more stopping power, semi-metallics are your best bet.

Ceramic pads are quieter, this is because of the surface. Ceramic material is more uniform as opposed to something metallic that can chip and cause dust due to friction and metals structure. Ceramics work less well when they overheat as we’ve said and they’re a great option for normal driving. Not gunning it? Get ceramics. Semi-metallic pads work better in the cold, they have more natural “bite”. The metal creates more friction on the rotors so the actual rotors of semi-metallics tend to wear down faster than ceramics.

So final points are that ceramics have less grip but they’re a cleaner solution and best for a daily driver. Semi-metallics handle extreme heat and cold better, last longer but create more dust and are harder on rotors because of their grip.

So, are you using your pads for daily driving or using your truck as a passenger vehicle instead of hauling(ceramic), longevity and heavy vehicles(semi-metallic) or at the track(semi-metallic)? Your answer lies in the response to that question.

If you’re interested in the history of ceramic brakes, wiki has you covered and has an entire article on brake pads of every type here

The 4 Best Brake Pads and Rotors for Toyota Tacoma

October 3, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

When you own a Tacoma, you’re used to it just working. Minor maintenance and the thing just runs.

Every once in a while you need a replacement and if you’ve been driving it for a while that could be your brake pads wearing thin.

If you hear some grinding or notice you’re not stopping on a dime anymore, it might be time to look for a replacement. Thankfully, there are many quality offerings.

So how do you find the perfect replacement or upgrade to your Tacoma? In this guide, we’ll take you through some options with bigger rotors down to swapping out the original for an OEM part.

Here are our reviews for the 4 Best Brake Pads and Rotors for Toyota Tacomas on the market:

1. Max Brakes E-Coated Rotors w/Ceramic Brake Pads

Fit: Toyota Tacoma 2005-2015

Note: If you’d like metallic brake pads over ceramic we have reviewed it below.

The Max Brakes E-Coated Rotor/Brake pads are a car lovers dream. If you’re into sleek design coupled with great performance, this is an option that will light up your eyes. The kit includes 2 front rotors and matching ceramic brake pads. They are coated with anti-rust chemicals and inspected with X-Rays. If you want a set of rotors/pads that work for a city that tends to rain a bit, the anti-rust coating is a big help. Each set has undergone QA testing to make sure you know you’re getting a quality part.

The cast iron rotors are drilled to reduce heat and increase braking performance on those close calls that we all encounter from time to time driving. They are specified to OEM parts, you’ll have no problem swapping these with your old rotors and brake pads on your Toyota Tacoma. Overall, this is one of the best replacement Rotor/Brake Pad combos for the money. Your truck will thank you for the performance and style upgrade.

2. Front kit OEM Brake Rotors and Ceramic Pads

The UrbanAutoParts OEM kit is a replacement that tries to replicate the original parts on your truck. These are tested for quality, balance and inspected with X-Rays to ensure you’re buying something that is going to stick with you for a long time. It includes 2 Rotors and 4 Ceramic Brake Pads.

They offer a strong warranty, 365 days against any cracking defects and 45 days against warping. You likely won’t have any issues with this and that’s why they’re proud to stand behind it.

If you’re looking for an affordable buy and swap kit, and want to keep as close to the original design as you can, then this is it. It’s also a great value price wise. Tacoma owners love the easy installation of this product.

Note All brake pads need to be broken in, and the process is different for each but the concept remains the same. Speed up to the required MPH and brake, allowing the pads to cool off before you do it again. Check your specific brake pads for instructions.

3. Max Brakes Premium Slotted Rotors w/Metallic Brake Pads

This is Max Brakes second offering in the category. This kit doesn’t have the same coating to reduce rust or the black aesthetic appeal, but everything else is nearly the same. If you live in an environment with less rain and want to save a little bit, go with these.

It includes 2 Front Rotors and 4 carbon metallic disc brake pads. As with all options listed here, these undergo X-Ray testing to ensure that you’re getting a quality part. There is a 1 year warranty against cracking.

Metallic brake pads are something we generally recommend for trucks so this option gets a huge plus from us. With heavy-duty vehicles in mind, the rotors have drilled holes to let heat disperse and give you greater braking power.

It fits Toyota Tacomas from 2005-2015. If you have an earlier model of Tacoma check our review below.

4. Brake Rotor Pads for Tacoma 99-04

If you have an older Tacoma(99-04) and you’re looking for a performance upgrade or replacement for your breaks, this is one of the best options available. EECP brake rotor pad kit includes 2 front disc brake rotors and 4 ceramic pads.

They use drilled rotors with a slotted groove like our other examples to improve the airflow and cooling efficiency of the pads. A 1 year warranty is included with the purchase of this product. The brake pads are semi-metallic which we recommend for trucks because they tend to last longer, and the brake rotor is coated in a protective layer of zinc to reduce rust.

These pads will still need to be broken in, but they are “thermal-scorched” for an easier break-in period. They’re a good choice for any Tacoma between 99-04.

What is the best brake rotor replacement for your Toyota Tacoma?

We have 2 winners, with one for the pre 2005 Tacomas and one for the post.

If you’re Tacoma is pre-2005 we think the clear choice is the EECP brake rotor pad kit. With the warranty, rust-resistant coating and semi-metallic brake pads this is guaranteed to last a long time. And it is actually guaranteed with a warranty for a year.

For the rest of the lot, our personal favorite is the Max Brakes with metallic brake pads. For trucks, the metallic brake pads last longer and can hold up to wear and tear. Ceramic breaks are not at their best when they get hot, which is more often in a truck than a car.

If you’d like to learn more about how brakes work and why brake rotors and pads are important, have a look! This informative video does a great job of covering everything you need to know.

Tacoma Rotors Keep Warping?

If you’re having to replace your rotors frequently on your Toyota Tacoma, check that you haven’t over torqued the lug nuts.

Tighten them to the specified torque your model suggests. Not torquing enough will have the same effect! When you are torquing the wheels, make sure it’s in a star pattern. Never move onto the next as this type of tightening increases probability of uneven distribution of force.

The next thing to check is your calipers. Next time you swap out your rotors, consider a rebuild of your calipers. They could be “sticky” and causing too much friction.

61 Car Dashboard Warning Lights – Their Meanings Explained

October 2, 2018 by Beast Auto Leave a Comment

I know the feeling of having my heart palpitate when a new symbol pops up on the dash. When I had my old beater of a car(1997 Oldsmobile 88 – rest in peace), unpredictable breakdowns were the norm. I got used to that, battle-scarred. Maintain the vehicle and wait for the disaster.

Nowadays, the technological revolution has lead to cars becoming increasingly sophisticated computers. If you have a BMW you know what I mean, warning lights on warning lights on warning lights.

Each car make is different, so if you have something new for your car let us know and we’ll add it to the list. If you’re working on a car with a lot of issues, or you’re just a generally curious person, we recommend adding a code error reader to your garage. When warning lights come up, you can do what the mechanics do and google away.

Here’s our guide to Dashboard Warning Lights:

Fog Light Indicator – Front

This is more of an indicator than a warning but it still pops on when your fog lights are active.

Power Steering Warning

The most common causes for this warning is because you have low power steering fluid. Check your levels and make sure to have them at the appropriate amount. If you decide NOT to take care of this, your power steering pump can be damaged.

ABS Warning Light

This can be red or yellow, when the computer runs a test of the systems and a sensor or valve isn’t responding then this will pop up.

Adaptive Lighting

Some cars use sensors to turn headlights on automatically at dusk or in the morning. That’s all this means, there’s a problem with the sensor. Not a major issue, but if you find yourself driving without your headlights you’ll know why.

Airbag Deactivated

Sometimes mechanics will need to deactivate connections on their way to fixing or diagnosing a problem, and sometimes they forget to reconnect them. If this is on in your car, get it fixed asap. This means your airbag won’t fire in the case of an accident.

Fog Light Indicator

This is more of an indicator than a warning but it still pops on when your fog lights are active.

Air Suspension Warning

Cars that use air suspension have pumps or compressors to power it. This button indicates a problem in that area. It could be a leak in a bag or an electrical issue.

Automatic Gearbox Issue

Automatic is the standard in all cars these days, and this light will pop on if there is an issue. Common problems: fluid temperature is too high. Get this to a mechanic if you see this issue. Leaving a problem with your transmission will cost you.

Auto Windscreen Wiping

This pops on for those of you who have automatic windscreen wiping. A sensor in your car beams at the windshield, and if there is moisture it takes more time to reflect. That’s when these turn on.

Battery / Alternator Warning

If the voltage that the alternator is producing is low, this turns on. This might mean you need to recharge your battery, check that the connections are solid, or replace your battery.

Hood Open

If your hood isn’t shut securely and latched, this light will activate. If it is latched securely, you might have a phantom problem and should get it looked at for your next service.

Brake Lights Warning

Your brakes work through a hydraulic system. If you see this light come and go, it may mean your fluid is low and you just have to top it off. Check your levels and go from there.

Brake Pad Warning Light

Some higher end models include this symbol, yours may have an exclamation mark in the middle. It’s an indicator that your brake pads need servicing or are low.

Catalytic Converter Warning Light

If your car is burning through fuel and this comes on, get it looked at. Catalytic converters help reduce emissions.

Convertible Roof Warning

If you have gunk or anything that could impair the mechanism from opening and closing properly, this will come on.

Cruise Control ON

Nothing to worry about here, just a simple indication that your cruise control is on.

Diesel Particulate Filter Warning

This filter is used to burn off the soot in the exhaust. If this is on, your soot levels are building up inside the filter. You should take it for a drive to regenerate the filter, but not at high speeds. If it doesn’t turn off, take it to a technician. Too much buildup could damage your filter and limit your speed.

Dipped Beam Headlights

Common in Volvos and Audios, you’ll see this warning when there is a difference between your two main beams. It can mean there’s a difference in wattage due to a failure or a bulb issue. Take a look at the bulbs and the plugs.

Dirty Air Filter

If you haven’t changed your air filter in a while, or you forget to replace it with a new one you might be seeing this warning. Your air filter is important for performance and having a dirty one is no bueno. If it’s replaced and you’re still seeing this, it could be a false positive. Check your fuses.

Distance Warning

A last minute sensor warning to tell you are in danger of hitting an object or a car during travel.

Doors Open

Someone forgot to close a door!

ECO Driving Indicator

Many cars these days have “modes”. ECO mode is one of them, engage it to save yourself gas. It limits acceleration on your car to keep it at a smooth climb.

Check Engine Light

This warning light is something no one wants to see, it’s broad but it indicates a problem. Get this checked ASAP. You can go to your local Auto parts store and grab a code reader to see exactly what the issue is.

Exterior Light Fault

This could mean a headlight or rear light is inoperable. If any exterior light on your car isn’t returning a proper reading for wattage. So something might need replacing.

Fault Problem

This is an electrical indication of a fault issue with the flow of electricity through your wiring.

Frost Warning

This is a heads up to the driver that conditions on the road are going to be icy. It can be difficult to drive with these conditions.

Fuel Filter Warning

Your fuel filter is for removing impurities from your gasoline. It has a sensor inside it because it collects water over time. You need to empty the fuel filter when this comes on.

Glow Plug Diesel Preheat

If you see the glow plug preheat light, your engine is warming up. This is fine. If it persists then you might need to replace a glow plug.

Hand/Parking Brake Warning

Your hand or parking brake is engaged if you’re seeing this light. Moving a little slower? Now you know why. We’ve made this mistake ourselves. No shame.

Headlight Range Control Warning

If this is on, your headlights have a system that tilts or rises based on your angle of driving. It’s not going to affect you much and you might not notice it, but get it looked at on your next visit to the mechanic.

High Beam Indicator

Your high beams are on! This isn’t an indicator to worry about, just flip off your high beams.

Hill Descent Control

This is a helpful light, your vehicle is navigating a steep decline and it’s letting you know that presets are active to help you get down safely.

Ignition Switch Warning

The ignition switch is something that gets used every day when you drive, this warning is letting you know that it needs some TLC. If there is an issue with the actual switch, it’s mechanical and your key will have trouble turning. It could also mean there is an issue with the key being used. Many have chips installed, so try your spare key if you’re able to turn it and see if it starts up.

Information Indicator

This is a general information warning light. The color will display the severity of it. If it’s yellow, get it checked right away. If it’s green or blue it’s just letting you know a system is on or off.

Key FOB Battery Low

Your key FOB is running out of juice. This is a common warning in higher end cars.

Key Not in Vehicle

If you have a keyless entry vehicle and try to start it without it actually being in the car, this light will come on. It just means your key is somewhere else. It has to be in the vicinity for it to work.

Lane Departure Warning

A defensive driving indicator, if your turning signal isn’t on and you begin to leave your lane this warning will pop up.

Low Fuel

Self explanatory although your wallet might not be a fan of it. You need more gas buddy!

Oil Pressure Low

It’s time for an oil change or a top off. If your car burns through oil you might see this more often than you like.

Parking Assist

Your parking assist is there to be your pal in tight spaces. If the warning light is on it means the sensors aren’t able to work properly, most likely they have dirt or some substance blocking them.

Press Clutch

Press Brake Pedal

If you drive a manual car and you see either of these warning pop up it just means you need to press them during your start up.

The first is a reminder to press the clutch, and the second is a reminder to press the brake pedal.

Rain and Light Sensor

Your rain and light sensor is either blocked or faulty. Some cars have one symbol for both and some have separate symbols for each.

Rain Sensor

You can learn about rain sensors form this trusted mechanic

The rain sensor just figures out by sending signals through your windshield if it’s raining or not. Sometimes it will start your wipers depending on the readings.

Rear Spoiler Warning

If you have an adjustable rear spoiler and see this indicator light, there is a problem with the mechanism. The piston may have broken or there could be a problem with the sensor.

Rear Window Defrost

This is simply an indicator that your rear window is defrosting. When it’s done you can disengage it.

Seatbelt Not Fastened

A common warning light, your car has weight sensors on the seat. When they hit a threshold(usually 40 lbs) a light will come on if the seatbelt isn’t clipped. That’s because your car recognizes that as a person. Sometimes we’ve laid things on our seat and had to deal with this light.

Service Required

A general service light, time to take it to your local mechanic.

Side Light Information

An indicator of when your side lights are in use. These help other drivers judge your vehicle width.

Speed Limiter

Your speed limiter is on. This is common for people who travel long distances. If you’ve accidentally engaged it, it will depend on your model how to disengage.

Stability Control Off

Most modern cars have traction control, its great for colder conditions. Basically, if your tire starts spinning in the snow, the computer will tap the brake to keep that wheel going as the same speed as the others.

Sometimes in the winter you might want to turn this off, because the computer is tapping your breaks for you or interfering with your driving. If you see this symbol, it just means it’s been turned off.

Steering Lock Warning

A potentially annoying problem, if your steering lock is engaged you’ll see this. What you need to do is insert your key in the ignition and turn it while turning your steering wheel to “break” the lock.

Suspension Dampers

The bump in your ride is taken out by your shock absorber “dampening” the momentum of you bouncing up and down around the road. The indicator will you show you the current setting you’re using or to the potential of a fault in your shocks.

Temperature Warning

If your engine is getting too hot you will see this light. It’s not something to look off, because you might overheat and be stuck somewhere.

Check your coolant and fluids for a leak.

Tire Pressure Low

This is a harmless indicator telling you to add more air pressure to your car tires. It usually comes on when they’ve lost 3psi or more below recommended thresholds. If you want to know what PSI your tires should be at, most models list it on a sticker on the drivers door.

Trailer Tow Hitch Warning

Check that your tow hitch is locked, if it isn’t then you’ll see this light. Nothing to mess with.

Trunk Open Indicator

An indication that you’ve left your trunk open, how could you.

Washer Fluid

You need more washer fluid! This is a relatively harmless indicator that your levels are getting low.

Water In Fuel Filter

Another type of display in some cars indicating that the fuel filter needs to be emptied because of built up water content.

Wind Screen Defrost

Simply means that your car is in defrost mode to clear up your windows.

Winter Mode

The winter mode indicator just lets you know that your car is driving in winter mode. It’ll respond differently in anticipation of icier conditions, depending on the presets of that auto manufacturer.

autolife

1. Smittybilt Cargo Net: 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK

2. Rugged Ridge Cargo Net: 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK

3. Smittybilt Cargo Net: 1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler TJ

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Why Own a Cargo Net?

Conclusion

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Conclusion

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How do Tire Chains improve traction?

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What does Formula One mean?

The First F1 Championship

F1 in the 1950s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1950s

F1 in the 1960s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1960s

F1 in the 1970s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1970s

F1 in the 1980s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1980s

F1 in the 1990s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 1990s

F1 in the 2000s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 2000s

F1 in the 2010s

Most Grand Prix Winners By Season 2010s

Notable F1 Drivers

Ayrton Senna

Lewis Hamilton

Sebastian Vettel

Michael Schumacher

Alain Prost

Mario Andretti

Jim Clark

Juan Manuel Fangio

Alan Jones

Nigel Mansell

The Go-Kart Farm System

F1 Accidents

1961 Monza

1994 San Marino

How do Formula One Teams Make Money?

Where the Sport is Today

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